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 Post subject: Looking for threaded barrel Kimber Gold Combat II .45 ACP
PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:11 pm 
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Hello,

My name is Josh. I am 22 years old and currently enlisted in the US Army Infantry. I am looking for a threaded barrel so that I may fit it to a silencer for my Kimber Gold Combat II .45 ACP Custom Shop Series, it comes stock with a 5" barrel, so I am going to need at least a 5.5" barrel, right? Does anyone know any barrels that are quality and threaded so that I may fit a silencer/flash suppressor on. Does anyone have any tips or tricks, hints or websites. I'm really a first time silencer buyer, so I'm still a bit confused on how everything works but from what I understand, I just need an extended barrel that is threaded and I need to find something that matches the thread on the barrel. Here is a picture of my current setup:

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Edit: And I cant find any manufacturer specific model barrels, are they just generic? I mean, I paid just over $1900 for this pistol, I want something quality but I'm not trying to lay down anywhere close to this price for it. I can just find generic 1911 model barrels, but no 5.5 inch and Im not sure they can just be swapped out without issues. Any input?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:59 pm 
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Josh,

My best advice to you is buy a 6.0in Kart/Schuemann/Barsto (top ones in my mind right now) and send your entire pistol and new barrel to a 1911 Pistolsmith who is capable and experienced in shortening and threading barrels.

The 1911 is weird beast, and it can get even weirder buy throwing on a new barrel, and then a suppressor.

There is alot that needs to be addressed with the barrel lug fitting, barrel link fit, and action components to ensure the entire system is cohesive. Adding a suppressor to the 1911 platform changes the engineering quite a bit, and you could be looking at damage to the can,pistol, and or yourself by just throwing an unfitting barrel with unverified threads in there, on top of the suppressor.

It will be time, more money than you'd like probably, but its worth protecting the newly bought $1900 pistol...

hope this helps


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 10:30 pm 
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We can fit a new threaded .578x28 barrel in your 1911 for you. Give me a call or drop me an email and I will get you a qoute.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 12:24 am 
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Just thought about this, is my 1911 supposed to have scrapes all around the barrel in about a complete circle about 2 inches long. I thought there may have been something wrong with this, and for a $1900 pistol it jams about twice for each magazine that I put through it. Its been this way since I bought it, using the magazine that came with it and Remington .45 ACP rounds. I have always been upset about this, but have never taken it back to get it looked at. I'll look into that barrel, Poacher. Anyone else have any leads? How much am I looking at paying someone to deal with this, Im not sure really how much a pro gunsmith costs as I've just done everything myself but apparently that hasn't worked out so hot.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 3:13 am 
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I am guessing that the scratches are on the front of the barrel? It is normal for where the bushing runs on the barrel. You may know this already but the 1911 needs plenty of lube in the right places. As far as malfunctions, if you can describe what type of malfunction we can help you diagnose it. It could be alot of things, lube, magazines, extractor tension, chamber depth or limp wristing among other things.

Our typical barrel install is 339.95 that includes parts, reliability, test fire and labor. While you are having that done I would suggest installing a new sear, disconnector and hammer to get those critical MIM parts out of your Kimber. That is the most common service we perform on kimbers.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:24 pm 
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Hi Josh,

I've done a bit of work on 1911's w/ suppressors. My barrel of choice is KKM Precision. They put the threads where I want them, and their barrels will shoot with the best of them. They thread the barrels specific to your intended suppressor (by manufacturer's thread specs), and by placing the threads a certain distance from a reference point you can avoid having the can hanging 1/8"+ from the front of the gun.

*I mention this to present another option for you. Not to try to steer you away from Shawn and Nighthawk. Their reputation speaks for itself, and is the result of a proven track record among 1911 enthusiasts.*

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:10 pm 
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Poacher wrote:
You may know this already but the 1911 needs plenty of lube in the right places. As far as malfunctions, if you can describe what type of malfunction we can help you diagnose it. It could be alot of things, lube, magazines, extractor tension, chamber depth or limp wristing among other things.


First off, I can tell you that I have a very manly wrist. :P Secondly, The scratches must be normal then because they look very machined and wore in but they worried me because in my line of work I am used to using just a 9mm Beretta (Which I hate) so I wasn't sure if they were supposed to be there or not. The round simply doesn't seat. Thats what happens when it jams, it will happen randomly after extraction and before the next round is seated. Before the round is seated it just simply stops, this also happens occasionally when I am first chambering a round, and I'm honestly not really gentle with it. The sound of a weapon charging and hearing a round seat is probably one of my favorite sounds, so I like it loud. Its always the same issue, its completely random and I thought it may have been an issue with a medium-priced round I was buying so I picked up a couple boxes of more expensive rounds and it didnt stop the issue. To correct it, I need to pull back on the slide enough where it pulls the round off of the part of the chamber by the ejection port and release the slide the completely seat the round. Maybe if I caught it I could get a picture of it but for now I guess I will wait to see what other offers roll in. I cant just send in my current barrel to KKM, Can I? I was under the impression that I need an extended barrel so that the suppressor does not interrupt the cycle of functions....

Thanks for the input.

Josh

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 8:30 pm 
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J-

you might want to check out Jarvis... mike is a stand up individual and they will outfit you with a match grade threaded barrel to whichever thread twist you desire! one stop shop with those guys... then again, 1911's are NEVER one stop shops!...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 8:41 pm 
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Dave Erickson does some awesome work also. You should consider all options on your threaded barrel and I wouldn't hesitate to use him.

Just guessing at your malfuntions problem it sounds like you could have too much extractor tension.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 5:07 pm 
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For anyone who was interested in this topic (Noone?), I ended up selling this pistol and buying a S&W M&P .40. Yes, I replaced a $1700 pistol with a $600 pistol, and you know what...I like the M&P better except for the fact that it seems to be missing a safety (Wtf?)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 5:33 pm 
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I would look into extending and threading the existing barrel so that you do not need to fit a new one or send the pistol somewhere. It is expensive to ship a pistol so why not use the existing barrel?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 9:17 pm 
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Robert, I must respectfully disagree. I'm no engineer, but I would be leery of adding a barrel extension to a standard .45 1911 barrel. With the ready availability of aftermarket extended and threaded barrels, I don't think it makes sense to do anything else. IIRC, there are a few drop-in aftermarket barrels available to avoid spending round-trip airfare to your 'smith of choice.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 9:46 pm 
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I have no experience with drop in 1911 barrels. I am leary because 1911s are made by so many companies. It is not like a Glock where there is one maker.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 10:13 pm 
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Great point, Robert. Never used a drop-in barrel myself for that very reason. Again, I'm no engineer, but I don't think that the typical .45 1911 barrel has the wall thickness to accomodate a threaded-on extension.

A few recent findings on the web, and more of my ramblings...

Storm Lake offers a drop-in .45ACP barrel, extended and threaded to .578-28 for $210. I can get a KKM "hard fit" barrel with the threads made to a specific silencer manufacturer's specification, and the threads placed as close to the bushing as possible for $225 or less.

After you spend $800+ on a suppressor, $200 for the tax stamp, $200+ for a barrel, and made an investment of your time and patience - I see having a barrel professionally fit as a proper end to this tale.

Just my .02...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 10:49 pm 
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1911 barrels are pretty thin. I would check with AAA to be sure. He may say he does a lot, or does not like to do them.


Last edited by silencertalk on Tue Apr 07, 2009 11:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 11:29 pm 
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For 1911 barrels I always recommend going for a factory extended barrel. In my opinion there's just not enough wall thickness on a 1911 barrel.
The usual thread used is .578x28 and most 1911 barrels are 0.003" less than that in diameter, but the threads still lay down just fine.
If you're going for a new AAC Evo .45 suppressor you're going to need more than a 5.5" barrel as the new mounts extend back over the barrel and have an o-ring to prevent unscrewing. Factory specs state a .65" min protrusion past the bushing.
Stay away from anything that's not a drop in fit (unless you know what you're doing or getting someone else to fit it for you) for 2 reasons:

1. 1911 barrels are a pain to fit without machine tools. Most barrels that require fitting have things like over sized locking lugs etc.

2. Precision tight fitting barrels don't seem to be mutually exclusive with using suppressors. Suppressors make the gun run dirtier and accumulate more crud in the action creating more friction. A super tight National Match barrel bushing usually doesn't work well in those conditions.

We usually have drop-in 1911 barrels threaded (0.578x28) with thread protector for $175, but we're out of them at the moment. When we get some more done, they'll be on our website.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2009 1:15 pm 
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Jmetcalf wrote:
For anyone who was interested in this topic (Noone?), I ended up selling this pistol and buying a S&W M&P .40. Yes, I replaced a $1700 pistol with a $600 pistol, and you know what...I like the M&P better except for the fact that it seems to be missing a safety (Wtf?)


Its sad I got the majority of responses that seemed to be more point blank after I NO LONGER HAVE THIS WEAPON, and I can't find a place for Smith & Wesson modifications here, is there a reason for that?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 1:45 am 
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LOL ..... YOU ARE MAD THAT THE RESPONSE FROM 3RD PARTY COMPANIES ON A 4TH PARTY WEBSITE WAS 9 DAYS AT THE MOST ..... DO YOU THINK COMPANIES JUST SIT ON FORUMS ALL DAY? :roll:

sry caps...



BTW Thanks for asking the question ... I just got a Kimber Custom TLE II and need to do all of this stuff. :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 10:04 am 
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In terms of Kimbers...

They are notoriously tight out of the factory. My Target Match would FTE and jam the empty casing between the barrel and ejection port every other mag for the first 500 rounds or so. No amount of lubrication or changing to new factory/Wilson mags would change this. The thing just finally worked itself out (I was about to send it back...).

I read the account of someone who had a similar problem, and they claim to have sent theirs back to Kimber to have the chamber size checked (was too tight).


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