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Sound Suppressor Discussion
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 Post subject: 1/2" x 28tpi tap and die, and threading
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 9:24 pm 
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Silent But Deadly

Joined: Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:59 am
Posts: 399
Location: Findlay, OH
I am looking for a tap and die set for 1/2" x 28 tpi. I see that they are sold separately at

midway:

P# 215171 FA Enterprises Die 1-1/2" Diameter 1/2"-28 AR-15 27.99
P# 462646 FA Enterprises Tap 1/2"-28 AR-15 29.99

Brownells:

P#080-598-528 AR-15/M16 Flash Suppressor Tap $29.97
P#080-598-529 AR-15/M16 Flash Suppressor Die $21.97

I was just curious if anyone knew of a cheaper location for a similar quality product?

I also know that these products are probably a must:

Brownells:
P# 080-000-379 Crown Saver, 10-Pak $19.95
P# 080-586-500 1/2" 79° Crown Cutter $44.45
P# 080-586-750 3/4" 79° Crown Cutter $49.95

any words of advice? or locations of better products?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 9:59 pm 
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Silent Operator
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Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2007 11:27 pm
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Location: Southeast Tn.
I got my set at a local Fastenal store for around $52 for both


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 10:25 pm 
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Silent But Deadly
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Location: Seattle, WA
Got two taps and a dye from Travers for about $30

https://www.travers.com/Default.asp

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�A wise man will often simplify the complicated, while a fool will complicate the simple�


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 1:12 am 
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www.use-enco.com

J


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 5:57 am
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Location: Tucson
http://www.victornet.com/

look in:
Threading Tools
Special Pitch Taps, up to 1/2"

1/2"-28 Tap = $9.50


Then:
Special Pitch Dies, up to 1/2"
1.5"OD Die = $15.80


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 10:28 am
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Location: MA
I say you get someone to cut the threads on a lathe.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:41 pm 
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Silent But Deadly

Joined: Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:59 am
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Location: Findlay, OH
Uncle has a lathe, but wanted to have him first change a thread protector i have. This requires making a bolt 1/2x28 to clamp in lathe, and allow you to back the barrel face of the protector up to the lathe, allowing you to cut it down, without clamping on the finish of the protector.

next step is handing him my stack of barrels and saying have fun, followed by thank you.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 4:11 pm 
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NBJamie99 wrote:
Uncle has a lathe, but wanted to have him first change a thread protector i have. This requires making a bolt 1/2x28 to clamp in lathe, and allow you to back the barrel face of the protector up to the lathe, allowing you to cut it down, without clamping on the finish of the protector.

next step is handing him my stack of barrels and saying have fun, followed by thank you.


Take a piece of stock and put it in the lathe, cut the 1/2 threads. Screw the thread protector onto it then cut it down.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 7:21 pm 
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Silent But Deadly
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Location: Canada
Cheap taps get dull quickly and then become useless. A dull tap is an excercise in frustration. It just sucks!

I usually try to single point the threads in my lathe to about 85% and then just use the tap to clean up and bring the thread to the right size.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 1:08 am 
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Dunce
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Location: Wisconsin
Suputin wrote:
Cheap taps get dull quickly and then become useless. A dull tap is an excercise in frustration. It just sucks!

I usually try to single point the threads in my lathe to about 85% and then just use the tap to clean up and bring the thread to the right size.


THEN WHY NOT JUST USE THE DAMN TAP?

That's confusng as hell. The whole point of single point threads is allignment you lose when you tap, and thread specs you can't get with a normal tap.

Single pointing and tapping seems like a good way to waste time.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 1:16 am 
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Silent But Deadly
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Because single pointing ensures everything is straight and true to start with. While the tap makes sure the threads are the right size. That is not too tight or too sloppy. This is particularily important when threading for something you don't happen to have at hand to check to see if the threads fit.

For example if I want to make a can to fit an AR, using the tap ensures the threads are the right spec cause I don't happen to have an AR to try them on.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 1:19 am 
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What kind of tap do you have? Is it class 2 or 3? Does it make threads too loose?

If you tap on a lathe, would it not be aligned perfectly?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 2:21 pm 
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Suputin wrote:
I usually try to single point the threads in my lathe to about 85% and then just use the tap to clean up and bring the thread to the right size.


When I took my machining class a student asked this question. The teacher basically laughed. Single point thread, use a gage to ensure specs. If you are threading, single poit and use a gage or thread wires to ensure correct specs.

Oh, I've been known to do the same thing, I use the tap to clean up the threads.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 3:35 pm 
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Silent But Deadly

Joined: Sat May 28, 2005 11:23 pm
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mpallett wrote:
Suputin wrote:
I usually try to single point the threads in my lathe to about 85% and then just use the tap to clean up and bring the thread to the right size.


When I took my machining class a student asked this question. The teacher basically laughed. Single point thread, use a gage to ensure specs. If you are threading, single poit and use a gage or thread wires to ensure correct specs.

Oh, I've been known to do the same thing, I use the tap to clean up the threads.


If you are making a part that can use class 2 threads, then this is a possible shortcut. The tap will follow the almost complete thread path left by single pointing. It is a time saver because you can forget having to have a gage or the mating part, and sneaking up on the correct fit.

That being said, I wouldn't use a tap for suppressor use because of possible misalignment, however small it may be. And yes, it is a pain in the ass to single point small internal threads, such as 1/2-28. You can hardly see whats going on due to the tool taking up most of the bore. You also have to have the mating part or a gage to check as you go. But that's the breaks.


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